slow and steady
I’m happier now that the mistake is corrected
over many projects I’ve developed some rag weaving techniques that work for me
when weaving rags for clothing I generally use a weave structure requiring a second weft of fine yarn. It results in a lighter fabric with more drape.
If the rags are short lengths, from old clothes, I place them by hand but if they are from sheeting I use a large rag shuttle.
At the edge I twist/roll the rag between my fingers.
A stretcher/temple prevents draw-in and floating selvedges help make a neat edge. To reduce bulk when sewing I often lap edges and top stitch instead of using a regular seam.
I taper the ends of rag strips and overlap them by approximately 2″, it saves time and reduces lumpy bumps in the weaving.
It’s slow but I wouldn’t be a weaver if I was a speed fiend!
www.onesmallstitch.Wordpress.com u 
I’m excited to see this piece develop Jean.
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excellent tips, things i had not dwelt on before. thank you! i shall write them down so as not to forget.
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The rag weaving is pretty complicated.Much more than I thought.
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ah, even rag weaving can be lovely…i acquired a swedish book once long ago that had wonderful rag weaving…changed my thinking about “rag rugs”.
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Thanks Jean for the posts on rag weaving. I’m preparing my warp threads now. I will use my ecodyed silk for the weft. What size strips should I cut my silk? Thanks Jean – Hugs Nat
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well – it’s not quite that simple. how many EPI (ends per inch) are you planning? what is the size/weight of the warp yarns? are you doing this in a class – in which case the instructor should be able to tell you. the weft needs to be compatible with the warp and it takes alot more fabric than you first expect, also quite a long time to prepare the rag weft. you will have to cut some different widths and sample. sorry, no easy answer.
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